BERRIES HAVE THE BEST MOUTHFEEL, the way you can feel each one individually in your mouth—like tapioca, or really well-cooked sushi rice. But people have lost some important berry vibe. These days everybody wants them to be sweet. I think they should be sour. That’s what I liked about saskatoons when I first encountered them in Newfoundland, where they call them serviceberries. I also like how the harvest window is so small. They’re not exactly rare. But commercially, you don’t see them that much. The last thing is that they’re really good for you—rich in anti-oxidants and very healthy. —J.C.
PRESENTED BY THE EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN TASTE & MADE IN ITALY
Generally speaking, we envy Italy its markets. But at this time of year, there is one thing we have in abundance at ours that they almost never see: fresh sweet corn. So while Michelin-starred chef Cerea makes his signature pasta with canned corn, we prefer to make it with the freshest Ontario sweetcorn – purchased roadside on the drive to the cottage, of course. It’s a great dish either way.
Taleggio Casoncelli with Cream of Corn and Sausage Recipe
- 500 gr (1 lb) 00 flour
- 3 whole eggs
- 3 egg yolks
- Salt to taste
- 45 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil
- 6 shallots, sliced
- 8 ears of fresh corn, cooked
- 1 L (1 quart) whole milk
- salt, white pepper
- 600 g (1 1/3 lb) Taleggio PDO
- 100 ml (3 fl. oz) fresh cream
Moscato di Scanso (Marsala) sauce:
- 15 ml (1 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil
- 1 shallot, sliced
- 250 ml (1 cup) Moscato di Scanzo DOCG (or Marsala DOCG)
- 125 ml (½ cup) veal demi-glace
- 500 g (1 lb) mild pork sausages
Mound the floor on a smooth work surface, make a well at the center, and add eggs and egg yolks. Use a pasta cutter to slowly incorporate eggs into the flour, then work together until you obtain a smooth, homogeneous dough. If it too hard sprinkle a little ice cold water into the mix (It should be just a little tacky to the touch). Roll the dough into a ball and wrap tightly in plastic wrap and rest for a minimum of 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a bain marie, add the cheese, and as begins to warm and melt, gradually add the cream, stirring it in a little at a time until it is completely incorporated. Set aside to cool.
To prepare the corn sauce, heat oil in a saucepan on medium-low, and sweat shallots until wilted and translucent. Add corn, heat through, stir, and add milk to cover. Raise heat to medium and bring a simmer. Lower heat and simmer for five minutes. Use an immersion (or conventional) blender to purée until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside.
For the wine sauce, heat a saucepan on medium-high, add the oil, and sauté the shallots until lightly browned. Raise heat and deglaze with the wine. Once it boils add the demi-glace. Bring to the boil, lower to a simmer and reduce by half. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.
Slice open sausage casing, remove stuffing, and transfer to a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Break up meat with a wooden spoon as it cooks, sauté until lightly browned, and set aside.
Use a rolling pin or pasta machine to roll out pasta to a thickness appropriate for ravioli. Use a circle cutter of about 6 to 7 cm (2½-3”) diameter to cut disks out the sheets of pasta. Arrange them on a floured work surface. Top each disk with a spoonful of the taleggio cream mixture, then fold pasta into a semi-circle and shape like casoncelli. Repeat until all the filling is used. Set casoncelli aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add a generous amount of salt. Cook casoncelli untilt they float – about 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer pasta to a sauté pan or skillet on medium heat, add butter and toss until coated. Season generously with Parmigiana-Reggiano., toss and divide between four warm pasta bowls. Meanwhile, reheat cream of corn, wine sauce and sausage.
Spoon corn sauce over the pasta, dab with wine sauce, and finally, scatter some sausage overtop.
Enrico Cerea is the chef of the family business that began 50 years ago when his parents founded Da Vittorio in Bergamo, Italy. With his progressive Lombardy cuisine, Cerea helped earn the restaurant’s third Michelin star in 2010, 32 years after Vittorio and Bruna earned the first one.
The care, attention and exploration of culinary themes is kept wide-ranging to please all palates. The most diverse palates will find pleasure and innovation here: meat and fish, game and seafood, mushrooms and truffles, fruit and vegetables, are all prepared with an original style that also takes into account the new frontiers in healthy cuisine.
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