“Maison publique” means “public house” in French, and true to its name, this restaurant in the heart of mostly-francophone Plateau Mont-Royal looks like a traditional British pub. Yet its wood paneling and retro wallpaper feel Canadian, too. Chef owner Derek Dammann once worked for Jamie Oliver at his original Fifteen in Islington, London—and Oliver provided Dammann the financial backing to open this place in 2012. The menu has the ambitious reach of a genuine English gastropub. Ingredients are strictly Canadian. Dishes are hearty, comforting and always generous. Expect items like fried rabbit, pork and clams, foie gras parfait and apple Eton mess, but note that the menu changes constantly. Sometimes fish is delivered directly from Gaspé or Côte Nord, where Dammann’s friend Alex Cruz, of the cult distribution company Société Orignal, is trying to commercialize by-catch. The list of Canadian wines is one of the best in town, and the weekend brunch is a classic.