Some large part of the enduring appeal of Scaramouche is attributable to the flawless service, which begins with complementary valet parking, and flows seamlessly through to the helpful maitre d’ at the reception desk, the knowledgeable waiter and the tiptop sommelier. Wine and water glasses are always topped up, but discreetly and without fuss. Which is as it should be. So is Keith Froggett’s food, which is elegant, well-grounded in European classicism, and packs just enough of a modern, inventive touch to always remains interesting. King crab Thermidor with artichoke heart and preserved lemon makes for a delightfully luxurious beginning. Fish dishes like grilled sea bass with shrimp, white beans and shrimp nage are always a strong point. So are meaty classics like bacon-wrapped roast venison with Périgiord truffle gratin. Desserts are similarly satisfying, and the views of the city at night are peerless.