No. 38: Maison Boulud

1228 SHERBROOKE STREET WEST, MONTREAL, QUEBEC
MAISONBOULUD.COM
514-842-4224

ONE HUNDRED AND FIVE YEARS AFTER THE LAUNCH OF THE WORLD’S FIRST RITZ-CARLTON IN MONTREAL, HERE WE ARE AGAIN, FEELING GOOD OVER LUNCH AT THE RITZ BAR, GLASS OF BURGUNDY AT HAND, AND ON THE PLATE THIS TIME, A GORGEOUS FRICASSÉ OF TRUFFLED BOUDIN BLANC AND SOT-L’Y-LAISSE (THOSE EXQUISITE OYSTERS FROM THE BACK OF THE CHICKEN), NESTLED ON SOME BUTTERY SAUTÉED GREENS AND PURÉE DE POMMES.

Times change. So do people’s ideas about luxury, and what’s special. Yet the Ritz stays relevant, and then some. Handing the keys of its restaurant to New York-based Lyonnais master chef Daniel Boulud was a great move for that cause, for his culinary vision fits perfectly here. Just as the sleek, Super Potato-designed restaurant is juxtaposed so successfully with the original César Ritz-penned lobby next door, Boulud’s cooking straddles modern and classical. Executive chef Riccardo Bertolino is a long-time Boulud veteran. He hails from Emilia-Romagna, and you would be hard-pressed to find another ostensibly French restaurant that presents its Italian dishes with greater finesse and conviction. The risotto is magnificent.

There are also modern riffs on bistro classics—like a harengs, pommes à l’huile inspired dish of lightly torched mackerel, perfect disks of potato, poached leek, dabs of aioli and a sprinkling of espelette. And the signature Boulud dishes (two-way beef, etc.), keep company with contemporary French dishes unique to this place. You can also go casual and local, like with a lobster guédille, a sort of Québécois lobster roll in a lovely saffron-scented bun. From its chocolate mille feuille to Boulud’s signature end-of-meal warm miniature madeleines, the pastry kitchen does an exceptional job. Service retains old-school Ritz-Carlton professionalism in a newly relaxed atmosphere.

HOURS

Breakfast
Monday to Sunday
7:00 AM until 10:30 AM

Brunch
Saturday, Sunday
12:00 PM until 2:30 PM

Lunch
Monday to Friday
12:00 PM until 2:00 PM

Dinner
Monday to Sunday
6:00 PM until 10:30 PM