No. 4: Buca Yorkville

53 SCOLLARD STREET, TORONTO, ONTARIO
BUCA.CA
416-962-2822

CHEF ROB GENTILE’s idea for this third iteration of Buca (Osteria & Bar) was to apply his much-admired, customary culinary approach (part traditional, part iconoclastic) to the underexplored realm of coastal Italian cooking.

This meant that his favourite ingredient at the original Buca— pork—was temporarily shelved in favour of fish and seafood. But his enthusiasm for salume and offal remained unchecked. So, expect salume di mare (like tuna soppressata, pistachio-flecked sidestripe shrimp mortadella, scallop-and-lobster sausage, etc.) as well as some nifty tricks with piscine offal (they even tap sturgeon spine to make their own vesiga, a delicacy you probably thought went down with the Titanic). To begin, try a fantastic riff on an original Buca classic: gnocco fritto, this time dyed black with squid ink, loaded up with tuna ‘nduja.

During truffle season (white and black) do not miss the thin-crust pizza with shaved truffle, Taleggio and grated cured duck egg yolk. Under no condition forgo the raw branzino, sliced tableside and dressed with prosecco, lemon and extra-virgin olive oil. Angel hair pasta with sea urchin is exceptional. Recently promoted chef de cuisine Kris Lee has the kitchen working with more finesse and discipline than ever before; the tasting menu at the chef ’s counter is a dazzling culinary experience. If you have less time and money to invest, note that brunch here is unique and exceptional. Desserts are strong; the wine list, predictably Italian. Service is smooth, the space cool, spare and sleek.

HOURS

Lunch
Monday to Friday 11:30 AM until 3:00 PM Dinner Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Sunday 5:00 PM until 10:00 PM
Thursday to Saturday 5:00 PM until 11:00 PM
Brunch Saturday, Sunday 10:30 AM until 3:00 PM

Photo by Chuck Ortiz

Photo by Rick O'Brien

Photo by Rick O'Brien

No. 4: Buca Yorkville

No. 1: Alo

No. 2: Toqué!

No. 3: Joe Beef