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In this sleek, spare Yorkville restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel complex, chef Rob Gentile goes somewhere he has been loathe to go before—fishing.

Buca Yorkville represents his personal take on the cooking of coastal Italy. In construction, it is identical to the food he likes best from the interior—except that it’s expressed almost entirely with fish and seafood. A marble slab of salumi di mare features thin slices of cured, smoked albacore tuna, smoked eel, cured yellow fin and octopus soppresatta—with black, squid ink grissini on the side. Nduja is made with raw tuna instead of raw pork. And in his seafarer’s carbonara, the traditional guanciale is swapped out for crumbled salty, smoke-cured herring roe. Do not miss the raw sea bass, sliced tableside and dressed with prosecco and evoo. The wine list is predictably strong in private Italian imports, and the service is knowledgeable and assured.