BERRIES HAVE THE BEST MOUTHFEEL, the way you can feel each one individually in your mouth—like tapioca, or really well-cooked sushi rice. But people have lost some important berry vibe. These days everybody wants them to be sweet. I think they should be sour. That’s what I liked about saskatoons when I first encountered them in Newfoundland, where they call them serviceberries. I also like how the harvest window is so small. They’re not exactly rare. But commercially, you don’t see them that much. The last thing is that they’re really good for you—rich in anti-oxidants and very healthy. —J.C.
Chef René Redzepi’s Noma Mexico pop-up has been called “the meal of the decade.”
Our Editor-in-Chief Jacob Richler experienced undeniable culinary genius and the meal of a lifetime at Noma Mexico. Here’s a look at the first three magical courses.
“Piñuela and tamarind”
A bromelia fruit – peeled, dressed with tamarind, and set on a backdrop of its lush green leaves.
“Melon clam from the Sea of Cortez”
Belly and mantle of a melon clam – sweet, salty and firm, sliced up and rearranged in a setup much prettier than that with which nature originally provided it. The tiny, wild sour orange is for squeezing over top – and then eating, whole.
“Salbute with dried tomatoes and chapulines”
A fried and puffed, mini tortilla, topped with oven-dried tomato, and meticulously arranged grasshopper segments.
Stay tuned for Richler’s review of NOMA Mexico.