Presented by The Extraordinary Italian Taste, Made in Italy
In this recipe, the brilliant, triple-Michelin starred Italian chef Giancarlo Perbellini builds a beautifully creamy risotto with stock and sweet shallots. Then, instead of folding the rest of his flavours into the traditional muddled whole, punctuates the base with exclamations of flavour: dabs of intense mushroom, shavings of cured fish roe, its salty, umami intensity lifted with smoke, and a sprinkle of breadcrumbs, for crunch.
- 3 slices Tuscan (white) bread, crusts removed
- 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Salt, pepper
- 500 g (18 oz) mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
- 2 tsp lemon juice
- 3 French (or 1 banana) shallots, minced
- 300 ml (1¼ cups) white wine
- 50 ml (1/4 cup) wine vinegar
- 1 pc bottarga, preferably tuna
- Wood chips (or flavour puck) for smoking
- 300 ml (1 ¼ cups) carnaroli rice
- 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock, at a simmer
- 1 tbsp butter
- 60 ml (¼ cup) grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- Vincotto (cooked wine must) as needed
- Salt as needed
Preheat oven to 140° C (275°F).
To make the bread dust, cube the bread and distribute on a baking sheet. Drizzle with the oil, season, and transfer to the middle rack of the oven until crisp – about 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and chop until reduce to crumbs. Set aside.
For the mushroom emulsion, toss mushrooms with lemon juice, transfer to a saucepan, and add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, then simmer for 30 minutes. Pass through cheesecloth-lined strainer into a fresh saucepan (discard solids). Reduce liquid to a syrup and set aside.
For the shallot reduction, combine shallots, wine and vinegar in a saucepan and reduce by half over medium heat. Set aside.
To smoke the bottarga, place the cured roe in a heat proof glass dish. Place wood chips alongside on a bed of aluminum foil, and light them with a blowtorch. Cover with a second glass dish and let smoke for 30-40 minutes. Transfer bottarga to the refrigerator.
To make the risotto, toast the rice in a dry pan over medium heat but do not colour – about 2 minutes. Add two ladles s of shallot reduction, and stir until the liquid is almost completely evaporated. Follow with a ladleful of chicken stock, and stir until evaporated. Repeat until no stock remains, the mixture is creamy, and the rice is cooked al dente – 15-20 minutes. Stir in the butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. Taste, and season with salt if necessary. If the risotto lacks acidity stir in a little more shallot reduction
To finish, distribute the risotto between four warmed plates. Finish each serving with dabs of mushroom emulsion, a sprinkling of vin cotto, bottarga shavings and bread dust. Enjoy at once.
Filmed at Miele Culinary Institutes.
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