NAMED FOR THE RENOWNED FRENCH STAGE ACTRESS (and noted Dreyfusard) Sarah Bernhardt, this second restaurant from Zach Kolomeir (Dreyfus) is another convincing hommage to the cooking of his hometown, Montreal. In this case, though, instead of modern bistro fare, he has chosen to celebrate something even more commonplace there — rotisserie chicken, in the singular style of Chalet Bar-B-Q, Côte-St-Luc BBQ, Chalet Lucerne and the like. If you remember that fare fondly, or simply want to know what it’s all about, be assured that the version available here is both faithful and superior. Better-quality birds are cooked more expertly on a far fancier rotisserie (a Rotisol from France, no less). The accompanying gravy has the correct vinegary tang (but fortunately lacks the original’s scads of cornstarch). The accompanying fries are uncharacteristically crisp, as is the pickle (and the bun does not come from POM). Still, there is plenty more on offer here, in this eminently cozy, quaint but stylish little restaurant in an old west-end townhouse. Other meats (lamb, duck, pork) make it into the Rotisol; vegetables get roasted in their drippings in the tray beneath. Imaginative, hearty salads are pleasingly textured and complemented by richly seasoned dressings (maple syrup, horseradish, etc.). Basic bistro fare, like leeks vinaigrette and trout amandine, still feature. House-made ice cream makes the perfect finish for a night on the patio.

–Anthony Walsh