EIGHT YEARS IN, Patrick Kriss confidently stays the course with his highly orchestrated tasting menus — expect a three-hour seating — executed with the elevated finesse loyal clients have come to expect — nay, demand. Not to rest on his Michelin star, Kriss and his kitchen team, helmed by Tim Yun, seduce with luxurious ingredients rather than daring combinations. The techniques are cutting-edge and the culinary styles, veering from Japanese to French and North American, rely on well-travelled ingredients (read: rare and expensive). Petrossian caviar sits alongside smoked Scottish salmon, foie gras tarts are touched with an apple-Calvados gel, and Hokkaido scallops are seasoned with Trikalinos bottarga from Greece. Canada gets a wave too with Saltspring mussels and Quebec milk-fed veal, and an East Coast lobster paired with Hokkaido uni and scrambled-egg foam. The dishes are always pretty and the sauces rich and generously deployed. The menu is not posted online and typically does not change dramatically with the seasons; rather, Yun and Kriss tweak it as they go, swapping in the best of whatever the world provides. Opt for wine director Christopher Sealy’s pairings, which come in two differently priced flights. A word of advice: Go premium and don’t look back.
Score a walk-in at the Barroom.
The Hidden Track — barman Lee Bond’s spicy passion-fruit margarita.
Photos: Jonathan Adediji
It's elusive, that sweet spot between being a special-occasion restaurant and a no-occasion let’s-grab-a-bite kind of place.