AFTER A BRIEF pandemic-enforced closure, chef and co-owner Mike Robbins and co-owner Jeff Parr had already implemented several next-level changes that helped earn them their Michelin star. The minimalist dining room, whimsically adorned with Lego sculptures, was reduced in capacity, from 58 to 42 seats. And from the renovated kitchen, à la carte offerings were permanently replaced with a monthly changing tasting menu, lending more finesse to pared-down plating and synchronized service. The modern Canadian cuisine includes a sizable pan-Asian influence. In fall, mushroom spaghettini is adorned with chanterelles, maple-bacon foam and crispy wakame; come spring, confit steelhead salmon is served with scallop boudin and koji-seasoned dill velouté. Reverie Beall’s wine list focuses on small, organic or biodynamic producers. While regulars might miss not being able to drop into the bar for snacks, they’ll be glad to know that the chef ’s famous tornand- toasted brioche makes an appearance on every menu and he’s still having fun with highlow flourishes like salt-and-vinegar powder (on fried sunchokes) and chocolate-dipped chicken skin as a recurring petit four.
Kusshi oysters with shaved foie gras and jalapeno mignonette.
BEAUTIFUL PRESENTATION AND CONTEMPORARY IDEAS that are thoughtful and damn tasty.”
Photos: Allison Kuhl
It's elusive, that sweet spot between being a special-occasion restaurant and a no-occasion let’s-grab-a-bite kind of place.