The venue is tiny—just a handful of tables and seats along a strip of bar—and the kitchen is barely large enough for a chef to turn around in, but the personality of Bar Von Der Fels belies the square footage it occupies. Chef Douglas King creates outsized flavours and artistic dishes pretty enough for Instagram and delicious enough to prompt return visits for one more taste before a beloved item disappears off the menu. Seafood plays prominently. The golden-tinged Hasselback potatoes topped with Fogo Island crab is a recurring favourite, the rich brown butter sauce slipping between the cut ridges of potato. Squid and scallops appear often, along with some unexpected meats, like rabbit—in a white lasagna—and beef tongue. Behind the bar, trust owner Will Trow to pour something unexpected from one of the myriad bottles he opens each night. There’s never a by-the-glass list because the selection, always unusual and exciting, changes constantly—much to the delight of wine enthusiasts.
Photos: RYAN BLADES