The front of the restaurant has an airy feel, with soaring ceilings and a back bar—punctuated by bottles, knick-knacks, art and books—that scale the wall, emphasizing the room’s height. An open kitchen adds to the unrestricted feeling of the space. Here, Chef Ryan Hotchkiss curates a compact menu— maybe 15 items that change subtly to accommodate seasonal ingredients while the backbone of the dishes stays the same. The delightfully light gnocchi Parisienne are a must order and, depending on the time of year, are paired at turns with mushrooms and green garlic or squash, sprouts and brown butter. Plates are well-conceived for sharing, a benefit to diners who can explore Hotchkiss’s creativity and deft touch in a menu that carefully balances richer offerings (pork ribs with black vinegar) and delicate ones (sea bream crudo). Never pass on the chance to order the fried chicken skin, cracklingly crisp and adorned with polka-dots of tangy honey mustard. Cap off the night with the signature posset dessert.
Photos: DONG KIM