Hidden away in a second-storey loft on the gritty side of Chinatown, this jazzy supper club transports you to a time when people dressed for dinner and a night on the town evoked a sense of occasion. Dreamed up by Tannis Ling, owner of the acclaimed Bao Bei, along with her long-time Executive Chef, Joël Watanabe, and Sous-chef, Alain Chow, it’s a place designed for holding hands in dimly lit corners. The imaginative menu—a sophisticated confluence of Japanese and Italian cuisines—features luscious lasagna layered with rabbit ragù and miso velouté, and a hefty Florentine-inspired ribeye with soy-based tare for dipping. Whole fried fish, diamond-scored and dusted in potato starch so the skin puffs up crispy, has been the signature dish since opening day. More recently, Senior Sous-chef Colin Uyeda, who hails from Galiano Island’s lauded Pilgrimme, has been knocking the pickling and fermentation program out of the park. You can sample his myriad seaweed preserves, quick kimchis and insalate cotte on the seafood platter. Or call ahead for an astonishingly diverse custom vegan tasting menu.
Photos: MARK YAMMINE