If you want to know the names of Quebec’s best suppliers of the moment, simply open the menu here and turn to the page labelled “nos producteurs.” From asparagus (La Sublime Asperge in Montérégie) to lobster (Homard des Îles in the Magdalen Islands) to suckling pig (Les Fermes Gaspor in the Basses-Laurentides), it’s all there—the product of Laprise’s many decades of experience cooking in lockstep with Quebec’s seasons. Ingredients are the star of each dish, their natural qualities highlighted with unexpected contrasts of flavour and texture. Compositions are often whimsical and always colourful. Techniques are grounded in the best French and Asian traditions, but their expression is entirely Québécois. Think razor clams in ginger-infused fish broth, dressed up with black radish, pickled shimeji, cucumber and angelica oil. Or magret of duck with hedgehog mushrooms, rutabaga and blueberry poivrade. Desserts from Johnny Chung are delightfully imaginative. Service is eminently professional. The cellar is deep, and recommendations from sommelier Carl Villeneuve-Lepage are always worth requesting. Or make it easy and experience the lot with a seven-course menu dégustation with prestige pairings.
Photos: EVE ROY