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No. 21: L’Abattoir

217 CARRALL STREET, VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA LABATTOIR.CA 604-568-1701 ALTHOUGH CO-OWNER AND GENERAL MANAGER PAUL GRUNBERG HAS OF LATE BEEN HUSTLING ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN, WINNING HIGH PRAISE FOR HIS RECENTLY OPENED SAVIO VOLPE, THIS RUGGEDLY ELEGANT FRENCH-INSPIRED CHARMER…

No. 49: Candide

551 SAINT MARTIN STREET, MONTREAL, QUEBEC RESTAURANTCANDIDE.COM 514-447-2717 Candide is deeply committed to serving what’s local and seasonal, and—deliberate or not—its messaging on this front begins long before you pick up the menu. Where else but in Quebec would you…

No. 48: Agrius

732 YATES STREET, VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA AGRIUSRESTAURANT.COM 778-265-6312 ALL GREAT MEALS BEGIN WITH THE BREAKING OF BREAD, DIETARY TRENDS BE DAMNED. At Agrius in downtown Victoria, a superlative basket filled with crusty wheat loaf, chewy boule and dense dark rye…

No. 47: Damas

1201 VAN HORNE AVENUE, MONTREAL, QUEBEC RESTAURANT-DAMAS.COM 514-439-5435 DAMAS OPENED IN MODEST QUARTERS ON PARK AVENUE IN 2010 AND WAS THRIVING THERE BEFORE THE WAR IN SYRIA PIQUED LOCAL INTEREST IN THAT TRAGIC COUNTRY’S EXTRAORDINARY CULINARY CULTURE. Then, in 2015,…

No. 46: Fairouz

343 SOMERSET STREET WEST, OTTAWA, ONTARIO FAIROUZ.CA 613-422-7700 WITH ITS MODERN, SOPHISTICATED TAKE ON THE CUISINE OF THE MIDDLE EAST, FAIROUZ IS ONE OF THE BEST THINGS TO HAPPEN TO OTTAWA’S FOOD SCENE IN YEARS. It honours the long-gone Lebanese…

No. 44: Jun I

156 LAURIER AVENUE WEST, MONTREAL, QUEBEC JUNI.CA 514-276-5864 THE FINEST JAPANESE RESTAURANTS ARE ALMOST ALWAYS RIGIDLY TRADITIONAL, BUT JUNICHI IKEMATSU’S MODERN JAPANESE RESTAURANT IS AN EXCEPTION. His cuisine is a hybrid that reflects his own unusual culinary background: despite being…

No. 41: Wolf in the Fog

150 FOURTH STREET, TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA WOLFINTHEFOG.COM 250-725-9653 PERCHED OVER A SURF SHOP ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE FISHERMAN’S WHARF, WOLF IN THE FOG COULDN’T BE ANY MORE HOLISTICALLY ALIGNED WITH THIS COOL, HIPPIE-COMMERCIALIZED OUTPOST ON THE REMOTE, WEATHERED EDGE…

No. 19: Nora Gray

1391 SAINT JACQUES STREET, MONTREAL, QUEBEC NORAGRAY.COM 514-419-6672 LOCATED NEAR THE BELL CENTRE IN A RETAIL NO MAN’S LAND, NORA GRAY IS NONETHELESS ALWAYS FULL—WHICH SAYS A LOT ABOUT THIS MODERN ITALIAN EATERY. The room is small, wood-lined with a…

No. 18: DaiLo

503 COLLEGE STREET, TORONTO, ONTARIO DAILOTO.COM 647-341-8882 CHEF NICK LIU AND HIS BUSINESS PARTNER, FRONT-OF-HOUSE MANAGER AND SOMMELIER, ANTON POTVIN, HAVE CREATED SOMETHING ENTIRELY UNIQUE IN THIS BOISTEROUS PAN-ASIAN BRASSERIE. DaiLo is a Cantonese term of affection that translates loosely…

No. 17 Mallard Cottage

8 BARROWS ROAD, ST. JOHN’S, NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR MALLARDCOTTAGE.CA 709-237-7314 THE 300-YEAR-OLD MALLARD COTTAGE, WITH ITS WHITE CLAPBOARD AND GREEN TRIM, IS OFFICIALLY RECOGNIZED AS ONE OF THE OLDEST WOODEN BUILDINGS IN NORTH AMERICA. Chef Todd Perrin undertook a massive,…

No. 14: Kissa Tanto

263 EAST PENDER STREET, VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA KISSATANTO.COM 778-379-8078 KISSA MEANS “CAFÉ” IN JAPANESE. Tanto means “a lot” in Italian. Together, they suggest The House of Plenty, a perfectly playful name for this unassumingly sophisticated new Japanese-Italian restaurant that has…

No. 13: Maison Publique

4720 MARQUETTE STREET, MONTREAL, QUEBEC MAISONPUBLIQUE.COM 514-507-0555 MONTREAL’S PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL MIGHT SEEM AN UNLIKELY LOCATION FOR ONE OF THE BEST GASTROPUBS THIS SIDE OF PICCADILLY, BUT THAT’S EXACTLY WHAT MAISON PUBLIQUE IS. Chef Derek Dammann, along with his backing partner…

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