When takeout became the new frontier for established restaurants, chef Danny St-Pierre (Auguste, Le Central) opened a pizzeria named Danny Pan Pizza in the leafy Montreal suburb of Saint-Lambert. His unexpected inspiration was the deep-dish pies of Detroit but with a twist (or two). For starters, his pies are round, not rectangular. And the toppings are very local — boudin noir; apple and mustard; bolognese and smoked meat. My favourite is the French onion soup. On my first visit, I ate it straight from the box, steaming hot, as soon as I got back to my car. On a bitterly cold evening, it was the epitome of comfort food, oozing with cheese and caramelized chunks of sweet onion. And it was still good when I got it home. But nothing compared to that first bite…a brief taste of freedom in my lockdown universe.
—Marie-Claude Lortie
Photo Credit: Danny St-Pierre
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