For this occasion, capon is my roasting bird of choice.

First, because it is a suitable size for a gathering of six to eight people and, second, because of its fat content, you will avoid the dangerous pitfall of having dry meat. I choose not to brine the bird, but rather salt it for two hours. This will give you the crispy skin that everyone loves. —D.D.

From Canada’s 100 Best Cooking Issue 2016

Serves
8

Salt the capon liberally inside and out. Set on a wire rack on a baking sheet and transfer to the refrigerator for 2 hours. Rinse bird well under cold running water, pat dry and return to the rack on the baking sheet. Refrigerate overnight uncovered, so that the skin dries. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment combine butter, brioche crumbs, foie gras, truffle and 15 g (1 tbsp) salt. Mix on medium until thoroughly combined— about 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to a piping bag and use immediately (NB: it can be refrigerated for up to 2 days but must be returned to room temperature before use). Working your fingers under the skin

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment combine butter, brioche crumbs, foie gras, truffle and 15 g (1 tbsp) salt. Mix on medium until thoroughly combined— about 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to a piping bag and use immediately (NB: it can be refrigerated for up to 2 days but must be returned to room temperature before use).

Working your fingers under the skin from the neck, gently loosen it from the breast, and then the legs and thighs, without tearing it. Insert the nozzle of the piping bag under the skin and squeeze about a third of the stuffing over each breast, and divide the other third between the two legs and thighs. Remove the piping bag and massage the skin of the capon to even out the layer of stuffing beneath. Insert orange, lemon, thyme and rosemary into the bird’s cavity. Truss, and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 220°C (425°F). One hour before roasting the capon, transfer it to the countertop to come to room temperature. Brush soft butter generously all over. Transfer the bird to a rack set in a roasting pan. Salt generously. Transfer to middle rack of the oven and roast, rotating the bird 180° when the skin begins to brown— after about 20 minutes. Lower temperature to 175°C (350°F) and roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg registers 68°C (155°F)—about 45 minutes longer. Remove bird to

Insert orange, lemon, thyme and rosemary into the bird’s cavity. Truss, and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 220°C (425°F). One hour before roasting the capon, transfer it to the countertop to come to room temperature. Brush soft butter generously all over. Transfer the bird to a rack set in a roasting pan. Salt generously. Transfer to middle rack of the oven and roast, rotating the bird 180° when the skin begins to brown— after about 20 minutes. Lower temperature to 175°C (350°F) and roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg registers 68°C (155°F)—about 45 minutes longer. Remove bird to

Transfer to middle rack of the oven and roast, rotating the bird 180° when the skin begins to brown— after about 20 minutes. Lower temperature to 175°C (350°F) and roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg registers 68°C (155°F)—about 45 minutes longer. Remove bird to countertop, cover loosely with foil, and rest for 30 minutes before carving.