NAMED FOR THE VICTIM, a century back, of a French military scandal that provoked a divisive national reckoning over institutional anti-Semitism, this Jewish-owned restaurant is nonetheless unambiguous in its enthusiasm for all things French. At least when it comes to l’art culinaire — and the wines that go best with it. Chef-owner Zach Kolomeir’s richly textured and exuberantly sauced Joe Beef–honed style of French cookery found loyal fans swiftly upon Dreyfus’s opening. But in the pandemic that soon followed, this charming restaurant’s diminutive size became a major liability. The kitchen was too small for takeout, and the dining room — with just 30 seats at full bore — was a non-starter in the dreary days of 50-percent capacity. Fortunately (like its namesake) Dreyfus pulled through. And on that good news front, note that the streetside patio (and its extra 20 seats) is back for the summer of ’22. Food here is acutely seasonal (la carte is composed anew daily). One night in winter featured a pan-roasted fluke sauced with a dairy-enriched foamed velouté. Tartares, sweetbreads and even lobster thermidor are on offer regularly. If you were looking for Quebec snow crab in its brief April season, this was the place to go. After your boned spinach-andoffal- stuffed roast Cornish hen, do not pass on the rum baba. The wine list tends toward the funky with a strong emphasis on small producers of natural wines.

–Mijune Pak