DOWN A SIDE STREET, just off the busy King Street strip, lies Edulis — from the exterior, a modest neighbourhood bistro; within, a veritable powerhouse of fine dining. Husband-and-wife team Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth — both owners, both chefs — are devoted to making everything from scratch or, failing that, procuring it from the very best of sources. Their culinary passions are strictly Western European. Although the focus occasionally falls to France or Italy, more often, inspiration comes from Spain, say, with milhojas of smoked eel, foie gras and Granny Smith apple, dressed with Balconville vinegar. The small but erudite wine list leans decidedly to the old world, exploring many lesser-known regions and grapes. The front-of-house team provides a relaxed and informed service.