FIVE YEARS ON, Rob Rossi and David Minicucci’s first enduring restaurant collaboration is humming along, its original popularity fully intact. The handsome room is invariably bustling, the two busy bars contributing to the convivial atmosphere. The duo draw on their Italian heritage to give classic Italian cuisine a fresh spin that’s light and correct. Rossi’s talents are on point: topnotch ingredients allow the chef to do more with less. The menu is replete with choice, yet easy to navigate. A single printed page lays out a few options each for primi, secondi and contorni, alongside salads, pizzas and spuntini (snacks). La Giulietta — the namesake pizza topped with lardo, smoked scamorza and pistachio — is, in a word, perfection. If you are confused as to why cacio e pepe has been all the rage these last few years, order it here and your doubts will swiftly recede. Some classics from launch, like the trippa alla romana and the polpo e fagioli (grilled octopus with dollops of salsa verde and cannellini beans) linger on the menu — and justifiably so. Others, like a starter of raw vegetables with bagna càuda, are strictly seasonal. Don’t miss the pine-nut tart with mascarpone and honey. Low-alcohol cocktails are designed to prick the palate. The wine list touches all the right notes: bottles are reasonably priced and mostly from low-intervention makers. Service is capable and warm.