Despite the contemporary photographs on the walls, le Club Chasse et Pêche has an enduring and charming retro feel, helped along by deep leather armchairs, low ceilings and meaty fare.

Chef Claude Pelletier and maître d’ extraordinaire Hubert Marsolais opened it in 2007 on the site of an old-school Old Montreal French stalwart called Le Fadeau, and something of the venerable feel of its predecessor has lingered on.

As the name of the restaurant suggests, both meat and fish star on its menu. Imaginative dishes run from Ora King salmon with sunchokes, carrots, labneh and dill to suckling pig, with mousseline of ratte potatoes, kale and walnut. If given the chance, do not miss the duck risotto with shavings of frozen foie gras.

A creative wine list and professional service make this place a favourite for both important business meetings and romantic dates. Some even come just for dessert—drawn in by the creative and meticulous artistry of pastry chef Masami Waki. Her caramel tart is a gem.

No restaurant in the country is more concerned with the pleasure of eating.  – ADRIAN MYERS

HOURSTuesday to Saturday
6:00 PM until 10:30 PM

PHOTOS: JORGE GIRON BRAN