Café Boulud

THE TWO-PRONGED makeover applied in late 2015 to Daniel Boulud’s then-faltering outpost in the flagship Four Seasons Hotel has proved enduring.

Its redesign by London-based superstar restaurant architect Martin Brudnizki (The Ivy, J. Sheekey, Miami Soho Beach House, etc.) still looks fresh and sharp, with his signature touches of loosely upholstered leather seats and a bar set with small individual lamps rendering the place into a stylish oasis of urban comfort. As for the menu, which Boulud scaled back from his original to instead deliver simple bistro comforts, has clearly struck a local chord. The crux of it comes courtesy of a Rotisol rotisserie, which yields beautiful roast whole chicken and duck, as well as lamb and other meats, perfectly textured lobster, vegetables roasted in pan drippings and a fantastic pineapple glazed on a vertical spit.

Boulud’s signature style of lightened, brightly flavoured French cooking is also applied to such classics as quenelles de brochet, and even the delicate boudin blanc wth pommes purées and apples.
There is also an array of classic bistro salads—from niçoise to lyonnaise, depending on the season. But more recently, restaurant chef Sylvain Assié has been bolstering that original lineup with intriguing new additions. For example, a fillet of Japanese-farmed bream (madai) is seared and served with leeks, sunchokes and riesling sauce. Desserts are a highlight. Some are Boulud classics, the concepts imported from NYC and made locally. Others—like the magnificent profiteroles served under a glossy chocolate dome—are unique to this kitchen. The service team is strong, and sommelier Drew Walker’s wine suggestions are invariably excellent.

Breakfast
Monday to Sunday
7:00 AM until11:00 AM

Lunch
Monday to Saturday
12:00 PM until3:00 PM

Dinner
Monday to Sunday
5:30 PM until 10:30 PM

Brunch
Sunday
11:00 AM until 3:00 PM