It began with a veggie burger. The takeout-only, quinoa-based, fennel-laced patty (plus low-intervention bottles to go) got Montreal’s celebrated vegetable-forward wine bar Le Vin Papillon through the depressed spring of 2020. Come patio season, classic menu items resurfaced — charcoal-grilled sweetbread brochettes and house-made ham with Avonlea cheddar, scarfed from plates and takeout containers at their giant temporary patio “Joe Beach.” This spring, restaurant group co-owner David McMillan decided to stick with small plates for takeout. “We realized people missed Vin Papillon,” he says. For summer, he’s thinking more “scorched-earth vegetarian/vegan” to avoid wasting quality meat in uncertain times. “I’d rather sell tasty butternut squash.”
—Amie Watson
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