After the 16 years in the culinary wilderness that followed the loss of his legendary fine-dining establishment, Lumière, Rob Feenie is back. Rather than start something new, though, last summer he took over local institution Le Crocodile from his one-time mentor, founding chef Michel Jacob. A substantial renovation ensued; the refreshed dining room features more natural light, blond woods, welcoming banquettes and a lounge area. The initial makeover of the menu was more tentative, out of respect for Le Crocodile’s very successful 41-year run, and a fear of offending the regulars who helped that happen. The foie gras terrine, diminutive Dover sole, veal escalopes with morel sauce and Alsatian apple tart were all deemed (and, for now, remain) sacrosanct. Increasingly, though, there are signs of what made Feenie’s cooking so brilliant in his Lumière days. Sauces have been getting lighter, products better, and Asian influences more prevalent (as with the bluefin with white miso, yuzu, chili and cucumber ice). Some Lumière standards (like sake and maple-marinated sablefish) are back with new accompaniments (koji butter sauce, seasonal mushrooms). Other dishes — like a seafood medley (lobster, scallop, shrimp) with yuzu butter, or the lamb saddle printanière with red pepper, eggplant and black garlic — show that despite the layoff, Feenie’s instinct for bright, harmonious simplicity is very much intact. Service is sharp and the wine list extensive.

HE’S BACK and Le Crocodile is back —something’s feeling RIGHT in this world. Lanita Layton