THE OSTENSIBLE NEIGHBOURHOOD restaurant just north of Jean-Talon Market has been elevated to a destination thanks to the irresistible combination of its exceptional cooking and welcoming front of house. Chef Simon Mathys, who owns and runs Mastard with his wife, Viki Brisson-Sylvestre, prepares five-course tasting menus that are local-product driven, seasonal, inventive and unfailingly delicious. Cocktails embrace Quebec spirits and homemade syrups, while the wine list is decidedly natural.