When Justin Leboe took over this 1930s dairy in the heart of Calgary’s hopping restaurant row he opted to keep its original name—and ditto, the old brick walls and concrete floors. A massive steel beam running down the centre of what would become the main dining room was adapted to accommodate slideable table-tops, which can be moved closer or farther apart for a changing seating plan. And this retro, slightly industrial setting has turned out to be a perfect canvas for his restlessly imaginative cooking. Leboe travels extensively, trolling for good culinary ideas that he then makes unmistakably his own. On the menu, the culinary language can appear dizzyingly multinational; but on the plate, it invariably turns out to be delightfully coherent. Think milk-fed sweetbreads with carrot jus, Vadouvan, persimmon and smoked almond. Or walleye with white bean fricassee, squid ink dashi and smoked pork hock. Chicken and waffles is a comforting classic. It’s cerebral food—but with a sense of fun always intact. Cocktails are also excellent.

308 17 AVENUE SOUTHWEST,
CALGARY, AB T2S 0A8

403-265-7343
MODELMILK.CA

Hours

OPEN DAILY
5:00PM

Executive Chef

Justin Leboe

Chef De Cuisine

Eric Hendry