No. 17 Mallard Cottage
8 BARROWS ROAD, ST. JOHN’S, NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR
THE 300-YEAR-OLD MALLARD COTTAGE, WITH ITS WHITE CLAPBOARD AND GREEN TRIM, IS OFFICIALLY RECOGNIZED AS ONE OF THE OLDEST WOODEN BUILDINGS IN NORTH AMERICA.
Chef Todd Perrin undertook a massive, two-year renovation of the heritage building in 2011 and quickly put the historic fishing village of Quidi Vidi on the culinary map. It’s a step back in time, alluring outside and ravishing within, and as charming on a sunny spring afternoon as in the midst of a blowing nor’easter. On chilly evenings, a fire burns in the double-sided hearth, contented guests mingle freely and music fills the air. Delicious aromas emanate from the open kitchen. The feel is more downhome kitchen party than fine dining, but the food and attentive service are firmly in the latter camp. Dishes emphasize foraged things, seafood and wild game: braised moose with creamed cabbage, sweet spiced duck ragout and seal in its season. (The daily menu is posted to its social media accounts.)
The cooking is built around updated Newfoundland traditions—cod au gratin pasta bake, salt beef with boiled potatoes and carrots, or pork sausage with parsnip purée and braised cabbage. But the kitchen is free to pursue culinary whims that might encompass halibut ceviche, farfalle with brown butter, hazelnuts and cold water shrimp, or turnip curry with chickpeas, almonds and yogurt. Dishes are designed for sharing. The weekend brunch, with its lavish cake table, is a Canadian classic. Cocktails are smart and modern.
5:30 PM until 9:00 PM
10:00 AM until 2:00 PM,
and 5:30 until 9:00 PM
10:00 AM until 3:30 PM
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN RICKS