Even in its picturesque coastal town, the charming yellow clapboard cottage that this restaurant calls home stands out. The floor plan follows the original existing rooms—add it all up and you have just 30 seats. So dinner here sometimes feels like being a guest in someone’s lovely country house, albeit someone who can cook unusually well. Chef Martin Ruiz Salvador is a Nova Scotia native who trained abroad, in Michelin-starred restaurants in Lyon. His passion is French food with clarity of flavour—just what you want applied to local seafood. Anything he does with sweet Adams & Knickle scallops is a must. Oysters are invariably on offer, with imaginative mignonettes. Lobster is butter-poached with potato salad and hollandaise. Halibut comes with new potatoes and a light smoky fumet. Simple concepts, executed with finesse.