No. 22: L’Abattoir
Gastown’s finest has weathered many changes without losing course, after the recent departures of founder Paul Grunberg, chef de cuisine Jack Chen and restaurant director Lisa Haley, along with the extremely successful launch of Coquille Fine Seafood across the road.
Assisted by chef de cuisine Michael Christiansen, who hails from The Pear Tree and won the 2014 Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship, co-owner and executive chef Lee Cooper has steered the ruggedly elegant brick-and-beam charmer back to its classical French roots. Baked Pacific oyster with truffle purée and mushroom marmalade, steak Diane and pan-fried veal sweetbreads on toast will never leave the menu, but do save room for excellent Wagyu tartare and grilled lobster tail vadouvan.
Set in a notable heritage building, L’Abattoir offers an upper dining room, a glass-encased atrium and a self-contained private dining facility across a cobblestone alley at No. 1 Gaoler’s Mews, home to an immensely popular monthly dinner series (eight guests, 10 courses) for which tickets sell out within minutes. An impressive weekend brunch service offers improbably fluffy buttermilk and ricotta pancakes, a full breakfast with boudin noir and delectable fresh pastries alongside biodynamic bubbles and grower Champagne from Vancouver’s original all-natural wine list, which continues to shine under wine director Kristi Linneboe. The cozy front bar remains a favourite among craft-cocktail aficionados.
Photo by : Ediblicious