ALTHOUGH CO-OWNER AND GENERAL MANAGER PAUL GRUNBERG HAS OF LATE BEEN HUSTLING ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN, WINNING HIGH PRAISE FOR HIS RECENTLY OPENED SAVIO VOLPE, THIS RUGGEDLY ELEGANT FRENCH-INSPIRED CHARMER KEPT THE HOME FIRES BURNING TO REMAIN GASTOWN’S FINEST.
Set in a refurbished brick-and-beam building appointed with classic tiles, sculpted driftwood and industrial fixtures, L’Abattoir offers a bar, upper dining room, glass-encased atrium and self-contained private dining facility across the back alleyway. When possible, start with executive chef and co-owner Lee Cooper’s favourite dish: baked Pacific oyster with truffle purée, mushroom marmalade and whipped garlic butter. While his seasonal menus read simply, they invariably incorporate imaginative twists.
Roast lamb loin and cheek is enlivened with bracingly bright mint gel, while snails and mushrooms are set in a vibrant pool of puréed parsley with Gruyère spaetzle. A new brunch service rises to a similar level of sophistication by pairing eggs with boudin noir or composing beetroot salads with fresh cheese-stuffed caraway cannoli. The wine list includes an enticing array of biodynamic bubbles and grower Champagne, carefully curated by wine director Lisa Haley. Behind the bar, Katie Ingram keeps the excellent cocktail list current by deftly mixing contemporary classics with B.C. craft spirits.
Sunday to Thursday
5:30 PM until 10:00 PM
5:30 PM until 10:30 PM
10:00 AM until 2:00 PM
Mushrooms & Snails and Beetroot & Pear Salad by Amy Ho, exterior, Katie Ingram,and cocktails by Hamid Attie Photography, Lee Cooper by Ediblicious Photography.