Authenticity has almost become a dirty word to David Chang and his fellow Asian-fusion revolutionists. But here at Maenam, chef-owner Angus An proudly bangs his traditional Thai mortar and pestle. The native Vancouverite trained under chef David Thompson at the world’s first Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nahm in London (since relocated to Bangkok). It was there that he met his Bangkok-born future wife and business partner, Kate, who was running the front of the house. Their simple Kitsilano dining room, casually dressed in pale pink paint, cork-top tables and bamboo wall coverings, belies a serious kitchen organized with classic precision, where the mise-en-place is prepped daily for each station. For diners weaned on Pad Thai bastardized with ketchup or kimchi, the mouth-popping sensation of bitterly brittle pea eggplants, the bracing vibrancy of a perfectly balanced banana blossom salad and the uncompromising heat of green curry halibut (effectively tamed with a semi-sweet Alsatian Riesling) will all taste revelatory.