No. 28: Scaramouche
IN TORONTO RESTAURANT TERMS, THIS ONE IS A SENIOR CITIZEN—AND, COME EVENING, YOU SEE PLENTY OF THOSE HERE, MANY WHEELED DOWN FROM APARTMENTS UPSTAIRS IN THE BENVENUTO BUILDING.
But you also see large groups out for special events and celebrations, and young couples out on important dates. It is a culinary institution with multi-generational appeal. In some large part this is attributable to the flawless service, which flows seamlessly through to the helpful maître d’ at the reception desk, the knowledgeable waiter and the tip-top sommelier. Wine and water glasses are always discreetly topped up when needed—but not more often. Keith Froggett’s culinary vision, executed these days by Carolyn Reid, is well-grounded in European classicism, and packs just enough of a modern inventive touch to always remain interesting. Fish dishes are always strong.
Say, Pacific white sturgeon in a crisp crust alongside beets, puréed celeriac and a wine-poached apple, all tied together with a textbook Meyer lemon beurre blanc. Luxurious old-school honey-glazed duck breast is plated with oloroso-braised turnips, nutty Italian farro grains and natural jus. The window-side views of the city at night are nearly peerless.
Monday to Saturday
5:00 PM until late
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAT FABIJANIC