IN AN AREA known for its macho steakhouses and swanky hotel lobby bars, Brothers makes no pretense of trying to fit in. The experience begins with the parting of a thick curtain that separates the restaurant from the busy intersection of Bay and Bloor in downtown Toronto. Behind the curtain, a small dining room with a narrow 18-seat bar and strawberry pink banquettes awaits. Every three or so minutes, the restaurant shakes slightly as a subway train rumbles beneath it. On busy nights, the kitchen line is occasionally converted into a standing bar for VIP guests who came without a reservation. And yet the restaurant’s intimate size makes it feel like a well-kept secret on even the most hectic Saturday evenings.Chefs Chris White and Jonathan Nicolau present a straightforward Mediterranean-inspired menu that changes frequently to reflect the best meat and produce available. In the summer, buttery seabream crudo is garnished with a smattering of crispy sunchokes, fresh chives and dill. During the cooler months, tender ham florets are draped over butternut squash with walnuts and a salty handful of ricotta salata. Meanwhile, sommelier Courtney Stabbings’ wine list focuses on low-intervention wines from a delightful combination of trusted and lesser-known producers. Attentive service means that finished plates are quickly cleared, and glasses are never left empty.