No. 30: Milos
Milos is by far Canada’s most successful high-end restaurant concept. What started in Montreal in 1979 as a simple Greek taverna now has branches in Athens, Miami, London, Las Vegas and Manhattan, where in March it opened a second branch at Hudson Yards.
Later this year comes Los Cabos, Mexico, and then Dubai. Meanwhile, its mothership in Montreal has evolved, moved locations and changed its look (out with the Greek fishing nets dangling from the ceiling in the marble-lined bathrooms), but the food concept remains precisely the same. The idea is to present Greek coastal cooking at its simple best: the finest, freshest fish and seafood prepared with the most alluring Mediterranean simplicity. The star of the show is whole fish—displayed on ice, sold by weight and more often than not grilled whole, dressed with nothing more than oregano, olive oil, lemon, salt and maybe some capers. The selection is exceptional: porgy, John Dory, snapper, swordfish, lavraki (sea bass), lithrini (red bream) and of course live lobster and exceptional shrimp. Vegetables and side dishes are excellent—from the Greek salad to the zucchini ribbons with tzatziki, and the grilled mushrooms. The place is a favourite for visiting film and entertainment industry people, and for anyone else equipped with an expense account that defies reason.