After a critically acclaimed decade, during which it elevated the gold standard for casual fine dining in Vancouver, this perpetually buzzing restaurant moved two doors down to a vastly larger, two-level space. The handsome brick walls, vaulted ceilings and shiny red accents of the original room remain, and an excellent bar program, with its extensive collection of Belgian beer and everinventive cocktails, has expanded into a showcase wine cellar with glasses chilled by hand-carved globes of glacial ice (a fresh slab arrives weekly). The playful food—Belgian by way of North Africa—has evolved to encompass the polyglot flavours of Asia and Central and South America. Every bite reveals a completely unexpected, yet perfectly composed surprise: silky frog legs sautéed in sriracha and dipped in avocado ranch; braised rabbit cannelloni strewn with lingonberries, dates and pistachios; roasted sablefish bathed in a light miso curry and bedecked with fresh pomegranate seeds. This is fusion at its finest.