In 2012, Momofuku Toronto opened with three restaurants, (Noodle Bar, Daishō, Shōtō), one bar, (Nikai), and Milk Bar. They are collectively housed in a grand glass complex tucked behind a massive shimmering dragon-like sculpture by Chinese artist Zhang Huan, at the foot of the Shangri-la Hotel and condominium tower.
Of the four, Shōtō is intended to be the showstopper, modelled on David Chang’s Manhattan flagship, Ko. (Unlike at Ko, though, there is no silly on-line lottery based reservation system, and you can get seats at the tasting bar same day.)
You will find Shōtō at the back of the top floor of the complex, away from the distractions of that floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the busy street below. Instead, you look inwards, and watch as executive chef Peter Jensen and his team prepare your Japanese-inspired multi-course tasting menu.
Expect a sequence of intricate, technically dazzling and highly original small plates like a light daikon purée with grilled trout, trout roe and radish, veal gyoza with pistachio, green olive and tuna, or steamed halibut with XO sauce and gai lan, or fresh noodles with nori, roe and diced sardine tempura. It is an 8 course Asian journey of a unique quality and continue to offer wine and beverage pairings from certified sommeliers.
Tuesday to Saturday
A modern take on Kaiseki tasting meals from the creative David Chang. – STEVEN LATNER