WITH A SECOND generation of diners now seeking out Scaramouche to mark important milestones— graduation, engagements, anniversaries, divorces—the restaurant seems as relevant as ever as it approaches 40.Standards were always high and remain so, and the flawless service flows seamlessly from the helpful maître d’ at the reception desk to the informed, cordial waiter and the tip-top sommelier. Wine and water glasses are always discreetly topped up when needed—but not more often. Keith Froggett’s culinary vision, which has inspired so many of Toronto’s top young chefs over the years, is executed these days by Carolyn Reid. Her cooking, grounded in European classicism, packs just enough of a modern inventive touch to always remain interesting.Fish dishes are always strong. Halibut, perhaps, cooked just so with Jerusalem artichoke purée, or Newfoundland cod with truffle and Gruyère crust. Venison loin, wrapped in bacon, of course, is joined by hearty Brussels sprouts and the most delicate celeriac tartelette. Butter-poached leeks come in a superb Meyer lemon beurre blanc. Views, especially those from the much-coveted window-side seats, are among the best in town.