No. 41: Wolf in the Fog
150 FOURTH STREET, TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA
PERCHED OVER A SURF SHOP ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE FISHERMAN’S WHARF, WOLF IN THE FOG COULDN’T BE ANY MORE HOLISTICALLY ALIGNED WITH THIS COOL, HIPPIE-COMMERCIALIZED OUTPOST ON THE REMOTE, WEATHERED EDGE OF VANCOUVER ISLAND’S WEST COAST. .
The dim-lit dining room, popular with both locals and tourists, speaks of a beach town in the wilderness with its broken surfboard wall hanging, driftwood wolf sculpture and vintage blues howling from spinning vinyl. For a chef trained in Calgary (Chase) and Montreal (Garçon), Nick Nutting has developed a deep appreciation for locally harvested wild seafood, and he prepares it with rugged elegance. Monstrous scallops are seared and served on sushi rice with crispy pork jowl and shaved pine mushrooms.
Gnarly gooseneck barnacles are poached in garlic butter. Fresh salmon—only fresh, never frozen—is basted with brown butter and stuffed with brown rice, bacon and tart evergreen huckleberries. Do try the signature smoked oysters doused in truffle oil and wrapped in fried potato strings. The more casual main-floor “den” does a brisk lunch trade with all-day breakfasts, juicy burgers and daily changing chowders and handmade pastas.
9:00 AM until late
5:00 PM until late
IMAGES COURTESY OF WOLF IN THE FOG