No. 43: Hoogan et Beaufort
4095 MOLSON STREET, MONTREAL, QUEBEC
THE NEW RESTAURANT BY MARC-ANDRÉ JETTÉ, WHO SHOT TO LOCAL PROMINENCE AT THE HELM OF LES 400 COUPS, IS COMPLETELY OFF THE BEATEN PATH.
You’ll find it in the east end of the city, in an industrial compound known as the CPR Angus Shops, a group of old brick buildings used by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the 1900s for making and repairing trains. (The two farmers who sold their land to the CPR were Hoogan and Beaufort, hence the restaurant’s name.) The industrial complex was decommissioned in 1992 and is finding its second life as the Technopôle Angus development, complete with cafés, shops and a liquor store.
Jetté has partnered with sommelier William Saulnier, also ex of Les 400 Coups, and the menu’s Italian slant is partly inspired by a seminal visit to Italy Jetté took after finishing up his previous gig in 2015. The 70-seat restaurant occupies a vast space, with high ceilings and lots of room for a bar and tables and an open kitchen where Jetté cooks delicate dishes from local products, especially vegetables and seafood. Try the strozzapreti—the name means “priest stranglers”—a short, hand-rolled pasta with urchin butter and smoked octopus. Or the crispy sweetbreads with pear and Jerusalem artichokes, mâche leaves and mustard seeds. Saulnier has put together a fine wine list with a variety of prizes and an emphasis on small French producers.
Wednesday to Friday
11:30 AM until 1:30 PM
Tuesday to Sunday
5:30 PM until 10:30 PM
10:00 AM until 2:30 PM
IMAGES COURTESY OFHOOGAN ET BEAUFORT, FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY Mickaël A. Bandassak