The ultra-modern square-angled Fogo Island Inn is set on rock in the middle of nowhere—even by Newfoundland standards. And the stark juxtaposition of its look to its setting has helped put it high on the to-do list of adventurous travellers worldwide. So, too, the draw of the craggy, desolate shoreline, the local arts and crafts, the engaging community and the cooking of chef Murray McDonald. Naturally, he favours local fish, wild game and foraged greens and berries. But his aim is to bring a modern vocabulary to traditional Newfoundland cooking. Expect scallop, lobster and cod— and more intriguingly, partridge, caribou, foraged moss and kelp. Do not miss McDonald’s lobscouse, a sort of Newfoundland pot-au-feu, with scrod, salt beef, potato and cabbage.