Now in its third regime, this quartercentury- old institution is for the first time being run by a locally bred chef-patron: Victor Barry, from Niagara-on-the-Lake. As expressed in his exuberantly rambling tasting menus, Barry’s idea of Canadian cooking is as multicultural as can be. A recent 24-course extravaganza featured Northern Divine caviar from BC served with white truffle ice cream, uni with nori, lobster with foie gras, a five-hour slow-cooked carrot, hare royale, and “coffee and doughnuts.” The culinary globetrot never makes a wrong move. Which is good, because tasting menus are now the only option here. Opt for the matched wines by the glass and go with the flow. The room is comfortable and softly lit, and the chef himself frequently emerges from his semi-open rear kitchen to serve and explain a course or two himself. Or maybe to take a time-out with a customer at the front-of-room bar. This is special-occasion dining. But that’s neither here nor there, because dining here makes a special occasion out of an ordinary evening even when nothing else is on the agenda.