If freshness and seasonality are the core tenets of Italian cuisine, this intimate room, which opened in December 2019 in Vancouver’s de facto Little Italy, is an orthodox house of worship. Don’t look for a menu online. It changes nightly to reflect local produce and the whims of Oca Pastificio chef/co-owner Greg Dilabio (formerly of C100B entrant La Quercia). You may spot him cutting your pasta shortly after you order it. A chalkboard list of the day’s offerings (drawn up before service) is sure to include a risotto, some salads and salumi, and a strictly Italian selection of wines, beer and cocktails. The five-course tasting menu handily solves options paralysis.

—Michael White

Photo Credit: (Tortelli) Leila Kwok

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