The Pine

AFTER A SUCCESSFUL three-and- a-half-year run in modest quarters on Collingwood’s main street, husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Cassie Austin made the decision to move operations to Creemore. The new space, a converted garage on the main road into town, is bright, spacious and minimalist — a fittingly neutral space for chef Jeremy to spin tales of his culinary travels in Italy, Hong Kong and Mainland China. Seating here jumps to 24, with six facing the open kitchen. New twin 200,000-BTU commercial woks allow the chef to fully embrace the philosophy of wok hei — a technique that imparts smoky flavours by applying extremely high heat to cooking oils. Menus change frequently, and the 14-to-18 courses (possibly more, once the team settles in) might include the intriguing combination of chrysanthemum greens, black walnut, scallop fudge and moringa leaf, featured in a dish called The Breath. The dish Yu Xiang Qiezi offers a fascinating meld of roasted and fermented eggplant, albacore jerky, pickled turnip, egg yolk and wildflower honey. The majority of ingredients are regional, with most of the produce coming from a farm owned by Cassie’s parents. This emphasis on all things local extends to the concise but judiciously chosen wine and drinks program focused on Ontario.