Hexagon

OWNERSHIP OF OAKVILLE’S PREMIER restaurant changed in spring last year, but thus far, the new proprietors have been smart enough to leave well enough alone what restaurateur Artur Koczur started. The sleek, modern, airy room with floor-to- ceiling windows looking out on Towne Square remains largely unchanged — save for the addition of a 20-seat dining room upstairs, making way for new display fridges for wine storage downstairs. On a more important front, the highly skilled Rafael Covarrubias remains at the helm in the open kitchen, with his long-time sous-chef Jordan Wilkinson, now elevated to chef de cuisine. Their menus reflect the former’s Mexican heritage, the latter’s Canadian Prairies background, and myriad international influences besides. Opt for the tasting menu and expect to begin with raw seafood — like an aguachile of dry-aged kampachi with chiles torreados and soy vinaigrette, or a yellowfin tuna tostada, with a smoky chipotle-infused kimchi. Next, take a trip west with Wilkinson for some pierogi-reminiscent potato-stuffed agnolotti. Dry-aged duck with celeriac and Niagara hazelnuts is a mainstay. The à la carte menu features more conservative offerings (say, Iberico pork pluma with sauce charcutière) that are no less delicious. This is fine dining without airs. Service is professional but unfussy, and the wine program run by sommelier Martin Watson keeps getting bigger and better, especially for those enamoured with the wines of Champagne and Burgundy (who isn’t?).