Edulis

“STAY A WHILE,” head waiter Philip Shaw often says in a warm greeting as you enter this destination restaurant disguised as a modest bistro. Here, enjoying the experience to its fullest, at your own pace, is part of Edulis’s philosophy of pleasure. It empowers each languid Sunday lunch and unhurried dinner and promotes every compelling invitation to add a further indulgence to the already intoxicating prix fixe — say, white truffles in fall, black in winter, and properly hand-sliced jamón Ibérico all year long. Between the consummate hospitality and measured pacing, meals at Edulis bend time. A birthday dinner that builds to roast chicken, with sauce vin jaune and black truffle, grows rollicking as the night goes on and the Burgundy continues to flow. To wit, a Christmas lunch, punctuated with dishes from co-chef/co-owner Tobey Nemeth’s childhood — roast goose, Hungarian breads — slips into evening. In the kitchen, Nemeth’s husband — co-chef/co-owner Michael Caballo — cooks food that’s rustic by nature but refined in execution. Each plate is reminiscent of the traditional European, Michelin-starred restaurants whose menus adorn the dining room walls. And most of the dishes would be at home on those very menus. There is no restaurant in the country quite like it. Stay a while — and enjoy with appropriate abandon.