Beba

OVER ITS SIX YEARS, this convivial 28-seat restaurant has singlehandedly turned a quiet residential corner in the working-class suburb of Verdun into a culinary destination, drawing regulars from near and far. Much of its appeal is attributable to the co-owner brothers Ari and Pablo Schor’s generous sense of hospitality. But more important still is their commitment to being the best possible ambassadors for their rich, but locally unusual, Argentine-Jewish culinary tradition. “We’re celebrating historic foods that don’t need to be made to sound like more than they are,” chef Ari says. The ostensibly simple, unfussy, unrepentantly meaty offerings are presented in a manner that belies the considerable effort that goes into them, especially as concerns an extensive offering of offal. For arroz caldoso, guinea fowl is poached in stock, which, in turn, is used to cook its Ryu no Hitomi rice. There’s gnocchi alla veneta, served with brodo-braised meat, beef tongue with chile verde, foie gras and truffle terrine, and Schor’s signature golden knish topped with Imperial Osetra caviar. Fall’s matsutake mushrooms are sautéed à la minute with onions and pancetta cotta, to be served with spaghetti alla chitarra. The cured Japanese mackerel montadito is a house standout. A tasting menu is available every night, as well as a chef’s menu of dishes served family-style.

All about GOOD times and GREAT vibes. Thy Le-Gossack