Walk Like a Sicilian

A sommelier’s favourite island hot spots — plus a few bottles to enjoy at home.

Long a fan of the volcanic wines of Sicily, I finally took my first trip there this year. Well, the island is hot, in every sense of the word. Here are some highlights of my Sicilian sojourn.

↗ Drink

Despite its unassuming frontage, Bar Osteria Cave Ox in Solicchiata is the place to rub shoulders with Etna’s enologi (wine experts). Gracious host Sandro Dibella is always enthused to guide guests through his extensive cellar of both regional and international bottlings.

The palm-dotted square at the base of the steps of the 12th-century Cathedral of Cefalù in Palermo is the ideal location to partake of a caffè, accompanied by some Verdello di Sicilia, a lemon rosolio (cordial) — the local digestif of choice.

↗ Eat

The regional antipasti at Ristorante San Giorgio e il Drago in Randazzo can easily be a full meal. The coniglio alla Paolina (rabbit in a tangy caper-and-olive-laced tomato sauce) is the real rustic deal.

In Palermo, Mastunicola is named for what is purported to be the first style of Neopolitan pizza — predating even margherita. Among the Campania-style pies on offer, try the masaniello, smothered in creamed eggplant, sublime culatello di Zibello and burrata di Puglia.

↗ Stay

The handsome Casa Palmento (palmento: a historic lava-stone building where wine is made) in Rovittello stands among some of the oldest vineyards on the northern slope of Etna, at Tenuta di Fessina. Rent the casa for up to 12 people and while away the days, sampling their exquisitely crafted wines, exploring food pairings or taking cooking classes with house chef Marco d’Agati.

↗ Wines

— JAMIE DRUMMOND