THIS NEARLY A-DECADE-OLD WESTBORO BISTRO IS, in many ways, the finest of Ottawa’s neighbourhood restaurants. Owned and run by husband-andwife team Jennifer (front of house) and Steve Wall (chef), the bar and adjoining simply appointed dining room are always welcoming and convivial. The open kitchen pumps out flawlessly fresh raw bar items, vegetable-forward starters, impeccable pastas and a short, smartly curated selection of main courses with gusto and care. While the menu changes frequently, a handful of classics have endured since day 1 in 2013 — like the albacore tuna crudo with lemon, truffle oil and crunchy puffed wild rice. And the salad of tenderized kale leaves with crumbled bacon, zesty caper-and-anchovy vinaigrette and a mound of shaved Manchego. Among the standout desserts — chocolate orange with creme anglaise, and the baked Alaska for two with spice cake, cream cheese gelato and Concord grapes. Always expect a crowd on Sunday night for “bubbles and bivalves,” when sparkling wines, oysters and other raw bar essentials are heavily marked down.

–Jeff Wong