At first, Atelier seems nondescript. It’s located on an out-of-the-way stretch of Little Italy, in an unremarkable two-storey building. Décor is subdued, mostly black and white, with little to distract the eye. This makes sense — a neutral canvas for eye-popping dishes, 40 of them, to be exact, organized in small thematic groupings. Very few will have gone by before you begin to appreciate why Marc Lepine is considered one of Canada’s most innovative chefs. Concepts are often playful — and, invariably, a lot of fun. Consider the “space salad.” Its freeze-dried tomato and mozzarella are, at first, utterly tasteless; then, after 10 seconds on the palate, the flavours are dramatically activated. Lepine’s so-called air waffle — a miniature Manchego-tinged two-biter garnished with jamón ibérico and quince mostarda — is so light it dissolves almost instantly when you pop it in your mouth. Dishes like fried P.E.I. oysters with chili oil and sea asparagus are as straightforward as things get here. Go for the premium pairings and enjoy choice cellar picks, often unexpected and always well aged. Tables are allotted for a daunting four hours, but the relentless onslaught of quality culinary entertainment makes that time pass swiftly.